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Iran is a classic case of books and covers.

It’s hard to reconcile the country you’ve heard about on the news with a place where iPhone-toting locals carve up the Alborz piste, old women invite you in for a hot Chelow kebab and Tinder dominates the dating scene. Conservative and unconventional, deeply religious and deeply surprising, Iran tours don’t fit into any easy pigeonhole. Which is kind of why we love them. Our local guides will show you all the highlights – the Golestan Palace, the Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Esfahan’s bustling bazaars – but they’ll also show you what it means to be a modern-day Iranian. And that’s one thing you won’t get from your average news bulletin

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